La Isla (The Island), enclosed between Gelli y Obes, Copérnico, and Galileo streets in Recoleta, is dominated by sophisticated and high class buildings and embassies. Due to its particular layout, with stairs and slopes, this spot is almost free of traffic and noise. All these features make this one of the most exclusive and upscale areas in Buenos Aires.






This peaceful retreat was once a country estate owned by the Hale Pearson family, with an English style park. Around 1910 the estate was sold and divided into different plots of land, and the final design was performed by architect Bouvard, director of Parks in Paris. From the original estate is the present British Residence building, a landmark of La Isla:

The equestrian monument of Bartolome Mitre, inaugurated in 1927, is the work of Italian sculptors Luis Calandra, David and Eduardo Rubino. It is located on a slope on Libertador Avenue and Aguero St, which makes it very imposing from below.

Bartolome Mitre was an outstanding Argentine politician, elected President of the Nation between 1862 and 1868. He was also the founder of the Argentine newspaper "La Nación".
The figure of the General is made in bronze, the basement in red granite, and it is surrounded by allegoric groups made of Carrara marble: in the front, the "Winged Victory", surrounded by: "The civil courage" (represented by and athlete wrestling a lion), "The family" (symbolized by a young mother with a sleeping child), and on the back "The victory", "The anguish", "The harmony", and "The study and thinking".

Due to some cases that have appeared in Brazil, Paraguay, and the North of the province of Misiones a few years ago, the Argentine Health Ministry has recommended, as a preventive measure, the vaccination against the yellow fever to all travelers that will be visiting those areas.

Vaccination is recommended, but not mandatory for tourists.

The immunization is recommended for people between 1 to 60 years of age. It is optional for children between 9 to 12 months, and for adults over 60 years of age. Ask your doctor about your risk situation.

Take into account that the vaccine must be applied 10 days prior to the visit to the affected areas, which is the necessary time for producing the organic defense reaction. The vaccine is effective for 10 years.

For those who are in Buenos Aires enough in advance, the health center that applies the vaccine to foreign visitors (for a fee) is Hospital Aleman de Buenos Aires (German Hospital): Av. Pueyrredón 1640, Buenos Aires - Tel. (54-11) 4827-7000. You have to ask for an appointment with a doctor that will evaluate your case and refer you to the immunology service.

Other private vaccination centers, like Stamboulian and Vacunar, also apply this vaccine, but a dorctor's prescription is required.

At the beginning of the XIXth century, Palermo was a site with farms and country estates. During the decade of 1830, the governor of Buenos Aires, Juan Manuel de Rosas, buys extensive plots of land and builds a colonial house and a religious chapel, in the intersection of the present avenues del Libertador Gral. San Martín and Av. Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. When Rosas is defeated in the Caseros battle in 1852 by Justo José de Urquiza, governor of Entre Ríos, the zone is completely abandoned and neglected. The colonial house is destroyed at the end of the century.

During the presidency of Domingo F. Sarmiento, in the year 1874, the "Parque Tres de Febrero" is created on those lands, in commemoration of the anniversary of the Caseros battle. At the same time, the Zoo and the Botanical Garden are also created. Some plots of lands are handed over to Argentine Rural Society for its annual cattle farming exhibitions, which take place every year up to these days; to the Argentine Racetrack, and to the Polo Association for the practice of these sports. In the XXth century, the construction of the Golf Course is permitted, as well as many sports clubs in the area, the Planetarium, the Islamic Mosque, the Velodrome, among others, which made the original "Bosques de Palermo" be reduced to less than half its original size.

Palermo neighborhood is so big, that it is divided into several quarters, all of them with their own features, which will require a separate description each. They are called:

Palermo Viejo/Soho
Alto Palermo
Las Cańitas
Palermo Chico
Palermo Hollywood
La Imprenta
Bosques de Palermo
Plaza Italia

Decorative Arts Museum
Evita´s Museum
Latin American Art Museum (MALBA)
Eduardo Sivori Museum

Parks:
Rose Garden
Japanese Garden
Botanical Garden
Eco Parque Buenos Aires
Las Heras Park
Plaza Alemania

Monuments:
Spaniard´s Monument
Garibaldi´s Monument
Urquiza´s Monument
Jose de San Martin Monument

Other attractions in Palermo:
Palermo Racetrack
Argentina Polo Field
King Fahd Islamic Center
Argentine Rural Society
Paseo Alcorta Shopping Mall
Alto Palermo Shopping Mall
Planetarium

In its beginnings it was inhabited by the workers of the nearby port of Buenos Aires. They settled around Plaza Dorrego and on Defensa Street, considered as the oldest street in the city. The neighborhood grew, becoming the place of residence of many of the wealthiest and most traditional families in Buenos Aires.

During the Yellow Fever epidemic of 1871, these families abandoned their mansions, which still exist, and moved to the North of the city. These large houses were occupied by immigrant families, and became what we know today as “conventillos”, communal houses in which each room was occupied by a whole family.

Today many of these old houses have been restored, and hold stylish shops, hotels, loft-style apartments, hostels, and art galleries. This part of the city was chosen by many Antique dealers to establish their shops, especially on Defensa Street.

Its location is convenient for visiting Puerto Madero and the Center of the city, and it’s closer to the International Airport, but it’s a little farther away from other commonly visited places in Buenos Aires like Palermo or Recoleta. Most of the apartments for rent in this area are old renovated houses and lofts. There are also many youth hostels and new hotels.

Main attractions in the neighborhood:

San Telmo Antiques Fair: at Plaza Dorrego, on Humberto Primo and Defensa. It takes place Every Sunday, from 10 am to 5 pm. More than 70 stalls where you can find long plays, vintage clothes, jewels, post cards, almanacs, books, lamps, cutlery, and all kinds of antiques and curiosities. 

This weekly event also gathers many street performers like tango dancers, musicians, living statues, mimes, and other artists who set up their stalls all along Defensa Street, from Plaza Dorrego to Plaza de Mayo.

Dorrego Square (Plaza Dorrego): limited by Defensa, Humberto Primo, Betlehem and Anselmo Aieta, it’s considered as the oldest square in Buenos Aires after Plaza de Mayo. It was declared as National Historic Monument.

Lezama Park: this huge park, on one of the natural hillsides of the city, has an amphitheater, a garden of statues, and a monument to conqueror Pedro de Mendoza. It also holds the National Historic Museum.

Mercado San Telmo: with its main entrance on the corner of Carlos Calvo and Bolívar, this century-old market is worth visiting for its intact original architecture. The interior is made of an excellent iron structure roofed with tin foil and glass. There´s a food market as well as some antiques shops inside. It was inaugurated in 1897.

Historic Cafés: the bar at the corner of Humberto Primo and Defensa was founded in 1870, and the bar "Británico", at Brasil and Defensa, was created in 1928.

Pasaje "La Defensa": Defensa 1179. This is a traditional house of late XIXth century colonial Buenos Aires, characterized by a central patio around which the different rooms where distributed. Today it hosts a commercial center and antiques shops.

Nuestra Sra. de Belén Church - San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo Parish: Humberto Iº 340. This old temple, started in 1734, suffered many restorations. In 1943 it was declared as National Historic Monument. Its architecture mixes post-colonial, baroque, neoclassical, and Italian styles.

Engineering School: Paseo Colón 850. Neoclassical style building, a copy of the Law School building in Recoleta.

Monument "Canto al Trabajo" (Ode to Wok Monument): Paseo Colón 800. Work of Argentine sculptor Rogelio de Yrurtia (1879-1950). Sculptural group of 14 bronze human figures carrying a heavy stone.

Museum of the Cinema: Defensa 1220. This museum is open Tuesdays to Fridays from 10 am to 5 pm, and holds a films library, collections of posters, clothes, photos and documents.

Secretariat of Agriculture Building: Paseo Colon 922. A superb building complex, in Neo-Gothic style.

To see more pictures of San Telmo, visit my San Telmo Photo Album

Coleccion Fortabat Museum, Olga Cosentini 141
Museum of Reproductions and Comparative  Sculptures Ernesto de la Carcova

Paza Alemania is sorrounded by Avenida Del Libertador, Avenida Casares, Castex and Cavia. The designer of this park was French landscape-architect Charles Thays, who is also the author of the plans for the Botanical Garden of Buenos Aires, among other parks in Buenos Aires. It was inaugurated in 1914, with its flower beds and a European-style garden.



The imposing monument-fountain located in the center of the park, called “Riqueza Agropecuaria Argentina” (Argentinian Agricultural Wealth), was donated by the German community in 1910 as an acknowledgment of Argentina´s hospitality. It was created by sculptor Gustav Adolf Bredow in Rome´s lava (soft rock), Carrara marble and bronze.



In 2004, the city's Government decided to recover the original layout and splendor of the park, which had been abandoned throughout the years. One of the main works was the renovation and recovery of the fountain which wasn´t functioning for many years. The playground for children was also renovated with new equipment.

This neighborhood accounts for many tourist attractions, like Recoleta Cemetery, The National Museum of Fine Arts, the artisans´fair, the Decorative Arts Museum, The Flower, the colonial Del Pilar Church, among others. There are also great restaurants, bars, cafés, and stylish shops. This is a nice area to stay, for walking along the streets, visit the numerous art galleries and museums, or just seat and relax to have a coffee and people watch at one of the terraces outside the Recoleta Cemetery or at the Buenos Aires Design Center.

This area of Buenos Aires used to be a working class neighborhood, with old houses and narrow streets. It was originally called “Palermo Viejo”, or “Old Palermo”, since this was one of the oldest quarters in Buenos Aires. It is comprised by the streets of Costa Rica, Godoy Cruz, Malabia and Gorriti. It is a part of the large Palermo Neighborhood.


A few years ago some designers started to renovate these old houses and abandoned factories to set their businesses and shops. That´s how this neighborhood started to transform, to become the new trendy fashion area of Buenos Aires. It changed its name to Palermo Soho, for its resemblance to the Soho in New York and London. It has also some resemblance with the new trendy Marais district in Paris.

This is a lively area, with many bars, restaurants, sushi clubs, coffee shops, wineries, and “parrillas”. There are also many art galleries, antiques, furniture and decoration shops. You will find many small shops with original designs, as well as big national and international brands in originally decorated houses. Beware that international brands are expensive. Try to find the smaller shops that offer original creations.

Pick up the free maps that you will find in any of those shops with all the information about the area.There are two artisan´s and artist´s fairs on weekends: one in Plaza Cortázar (Serrano & Honduras), around which there are also many shops where independent designers offer their creations, and the other one on Plaza Palermo Viejo (Costa Rica & Armenia).

Many new hotels have opened their doors in this area, specially boutique hotels, bed & breakfasts, and youth hostels. There is also an increasing offer of apartments for rent. Despite all this movement, it is still a quiet neighborhood, with tree lined streets, little traffic, and a tranquil atmosphere.